Week 9- Safari Country

Leaving Kigoma was a true experience, similar but different than our last travel by train across the country. As we boarded our train, we quickly realized the dilapidated state of the cars- most did not have windows, the grime factor was very high, and the maintenance and upkeep went to the engines and the guts of the train, but not the cars themselves. Emmet’s comment as we inspected our berth was, “this is horrifying” which is almost a polite way to describe the weathered and torn seats that folded into our sleeping beds and the

plywood-replaced window. We perked up, however, when the attendant delivered fresh and clean sheets, friendly security folks came to check on us and the other passengers, and we befriended a beautiful family with a bright eyed cutest little baby in the berth next door. The rest ride was uneventful, and can even be described as pleasant after we settled in.

We’ve made it to the northern portion of Tanzania after our 24 hour funky train, a couple of guesthouse stays, and buses and bjegis (3 wheeled vehicles) transporting us through the rural central portion of the country. Here, the weather is cooler than what we’ve experiences thus far, Massai people in their sukas and jewelried adornments speckle the landscape, and the distances seem endless against the volcanic caldera of the Great Rift Valley. 

dik dik wandering the lodge grounds

We are starting the safari portion of our travels through the more protected and world-wide revered portion of Tanzania, starting with 2 days in Tarangire National Park and our first in-park lodging accommodations. This proved to be an exceptional safari that we can’t say enough about- the undulating terrain kept us alert for animals and scenery, and the vastness of the park was incredible. The further we drove, the more expansive the viewshed. Then, we soaked in the ambiance of our in-park safari lodge with sundowners (drinks and snacks) on the veranda positioned on the edge of the escarpment, with views overlooking wildlife going about their business below. Sunset, good food, dik-diks wandering by (worlds smallest ungulate), and amazing bird-life. 

finding water whereever they can

yellow-throated spurfowl

 Onto Manyara National Park, which we had been awaiting mainly because of Emmet’s fascination for the fabled “tree climbing” lions. He was finally going to see them! As we entered the park, we discovered the dense forest and the shrub cover are ideal for hiding animals. But what we did find exceptional about this park (and what should be advertised in our minds) was the bird life of the saline lake shore. Spoonbills, pink-backed pelicans, flamingos, saddle-billed storks, sacred ibis, and of course the general African wildlife that congregate along on the water’s edge. But no lions in trees today. Our tented camp in Manyara was at the base of the Great Rift Valley escarpment- 1500 vertical feet of geologic wonder. Hundreds of baboons sunbathed on the rocks then retired for the night right next to camp as we ate dinner on a dry riverbed. We settled into the simple yet stylish tents for the night, listening to the sounds of elephants, leopards and baboons howling all night long!  Funny how each of these safari lodges are so different- all have an elegance and luxury to them, yet their styles vary dramatically.  We feel lucky to try several of them to see the differences.

Pink-backed pelicans and flamingos in Lake Manyara

Just near to Lake Manyara is Karatu, the closest town to the Ngorogoro Conservation Area. We are heading there to meet up with the Casey family in a couple of days.