Week 10- Lions of the Serengeti

We explore the town of Karatu for a day, but we mostly anticipate the arrival of the Casey family- Nellie, Chris, Brenna, and Erin are heading into Tanzania for a week from their Embassy home in Madagascar.  Together the Bondis and Caseys share and compare stories of Methow and Madagasi life and times, play games and explore town, and venture out on a 3 day Serengeti safari, which is unforgettable from the start. 

Serengeti National Park is world renowned for its abundance of wildlife and its fabulous migrations across the borders with Kenya.  We now see why! From just at the park entrance, an entourage of fantastic wildlife viewing opens in front of us. A jackal family emerges from a den-site; several cheetahs give us sneak peaks of life on the grasslands; lanky secretary birds strut across the endless plains; and thousands of zebras speckle the land. Interestingly, we learn that the zebras follow the wildebeest herds because the wildebeest have an internal compass to find water (and even sense rain), hence their famous migration patterns. However the wildebeest have terrible eyesight, and use the zebras keen sense of eyesight as protection from predators. 

4 ft tall secretary bird!

zebras everywhere, however the wildebeest for the most part had moved on...

This beneficial relationship did not help today however, as we spotted an alert female lion attentively watching a large herd of zebras and wildebeest getting water down an embankment of the Seronera River. There were at least 10 safari rigs parked and watching at a very close distance, so we were amazed when the lioness suddenly crouched and started to stalk towards the ridge where her prey accessed the water. Within a minute or so, she leapt out of view into the shallow waters and all we could see was gray, white and black stripes scattering, and then hoofs in the air with the lion’s head emerging. Her jaws were sunk into the neck of a young wildebeest. We were awestruck by her speed, agility, and success! We couldn’t help but watch from our peek-a-boo view as the lioness pulled the wildebeest out of the gully to a more protected site where she could feed without interruption from the hyenas, vultures and overhead maribou storks. 

Upon arrival at dusk at our lodge, we were all so jazzed we decided on an early morning safari to

keep the momentum in our favor. Six AM start-time, with breakfast boxes packed to-go. And we were rewarded! In the same vicinity where our lioness had taken the wildebeest was a lion pride who had taken down a Cape buffalo the same evening.  Most of the pride was finished feeding for the morning as we arrived, but we realized some of the lions were still coming off the carcass which was surrounded by 8 or so safari vehicles. All this (including the carcass) was in the middle of the road! Of course, we were all feeling guilty about the disturbance, and repulsed by the way all the cars surrounded the lions at such close distance. We thought to hang back a bit, but within a short time, the lions came to the side of our vehicle to laze in its shade. Amelia’s photographic ambitions were going to pay off here, especially because she was only within a meter (!) of a male lion’s face.  So beautiful, but daunting; keep

those arms and cameras inside! We watched the cubs tumble over each other, mewing as they rubbed against mamas head, and swishing tails to flick the flies covering their backs. We even had to keep moving the vehicle so they didn’t climb under the vehicle.

We finally left the site only to encounter a majestic pair of lions (whom we saw the day before as well). Both days they simply told their story- its mating season and they openly displayed their affection towards one another. Another awe-inspiring level of connection to these animals while sharing experiences with a dozen other vehicles in our midst; it seems the animals have habituated to the presence of humans in this area.  Lots of curious banter from the kids in our group as drove through more Serengeti bush country, then back to the lodge for an afternoon by the swimming pool and a serious safari buffet dinner.

Ngorogoro Conservation Area is our next destination, as we head back the direction of our accommodations in Karatu.  We’ve all heard about Ngorogoro Crater, but not much about the surrounding 16,000 sq miles of the Conservation Area, government set aside land for the Masaai people.   It’s a similar story to our Native Americans history of an indigenous tribe having their land confiscated, and reserve areas designated as a place for them to live. Many of the Masaai still practice their traditional pastoral lifestyle raising herd animals, living in thorn-protected bomas, and wearing their traditional clothing and jewelry.  Their past tradition of hunting lions to progress to manhood is not allowed by the Tanzanian government, and the national parks are working on ways to collaborate with Masaai to help protect wildlife in an ever increasing controversy on wildlife poaching and habitat destruction (over grazing and desertification).

Masaai in front of their boma surrounded by thorn fencing (left)

Our ultimate celebration of time together with the Casey family was Thanksgiving Day back at Oldeani Lodge in Karatu.  Local foods like mashed potatoes, carrots, potato leek soup, bread stuffing, and home-made from scratch pumpkin pie reminded us of home in the USA, but the roast chicken and lack of cranberries pinched us awake to our Tanzanian reality.  We could have been on Mars, but sharing time together soothed all our souls and deepened our friendship.

matching elephant pants

The Caseys flew home from Kilimanjaro airport while our family settled in for a few days in Arusha with friends we have met through Teresa Castner and Bill Pope, Allan and Ester and their 5yr old son Billy. In Arusha, we partook in a bit of shopping, eating big city good food, fishing and walking around a city park lake. We scratched our head and giggled as we gathered with the Dutch who make Tanzania their home to celebrate Cinter Claus; who could have guessed?!

Here we sit reflecting on our good fortunes and preparing for our last couple of weeks in Tanzania. Zanzibar, here we come!